We Flew For the First Time Since March - Here’s How it Went …

Dear family and friends,

The husband and I successfully made it across the Atlantic and are now comfortably settled into our lovely Airbnb in Berlin. And, we are happy to report that we tested negative for the Coronavirus despite traveling through four airports, three airplanes and bumping into an international crowd of travelers unwilling to categorically wear masks, wash their hands or social distance. Here’s the story:

Many people have been asking me how I was even allowed to fly to Germany despite the EU rules banning American tourists. My situation is different in that I am married to a EU citizen and was thus theoretically allowed to enter, but I double-checked with the German immigration authority, the Frankfurt airport police and Lufthansa before booking our flights. With all our paperwork in order (Germans do love their paperwork), we booked our tickets to Berlin from Atlanta.

Originally, we booked a super cute flight (ATL-FRA-BER), but the European Union affectively banned American travelers from traveling for vacation on July 1st, and Lufthansa consequently cancelled our direct flights shortly after that decision was made (I’m still waiting on the refund for all of the extras and I’m waiting on another refund from Lufthansa from a cancelled flight in March).

The silver lining is that Lufthansa did help us rebook our flight, this time through Chicago, and we managed to upgrade to business class the whole way (which was fairly inexpensive comparatively speaking).

***Side note for those giving me the side-eye for flying business class: Our tickets in total did not cost any more than an economy class ticket on United Airlines. Now, would you rather fly economy on UNITED or Business on Lufthansa . . . For the same price?***

Despite our lovely upgrades, the prospect of flying through four airports and three airplanes whilst potentially being in contact with thousands of people made us a little nervous.

Me looking exhausted, my husband looking excited, and my father looking annoyed by Atlanta’s traffic

The day of our flight, we bid our family a heartfelt farewell in the Georgia countryside. My father then packed us up into his Ford F-150 and drove us through the hellish Atlanta traffic where we arrived 3 and a half hours ahead of our flights.  Luckily, hardly anyone was in the airport.  Since the first flight was operated by United Airlines (long sigh), we walked to the United Premier Access Line where we were greeted by a kiosk that did not like our reservation.  The kiosk immediately called a representative over (1 of 2 that morning for United) who then helped us with our tickets, our four oversized and overweight bags, and TSA pre-check which did not register in the system unfortunately.  But it was okay.  We arrived early and if it took some time to get through this step, that would be okay, right?

In the meantime, a small line formed next to us with other people who were also having issues with the kiosks.  Bae and I thought we were special but, alas, it seemed like the kiosks hated everybody.  One woman, let’s call her Karen, walked over to the representative and said “well, I have been waiting for half an hour for help but no one is around” before walking off in a huff.  The representative and I look at each other meaningfully before she continued helping us with our issues.  Not to be outdone, another woman, let’s call her Becky, and her husband yelled at the representative stating that they had also been waiting for half an hour, and that their plane was leaving in half an hour but no one had come to help them.

Let’s pause.  During a pandemic, you chose to arrive at one of the largest and busiest airports on the planet a mere hour before your flight?  But you have the audacity, nae, the gaul to yell at one of only two representatives working this morning?  But also, Karen and Becky were lying.  Bae and I were the first to arrive in the line and it took us a grand total of 15 minutes to get our tickets and our luggage checked.  

The representative, in a wave of pettiness that washed over me like a warm summer rain, spent a full extra five minutes tinkering with our reservation before bidding us a safe flight just to spite Karen and Becky.

It was in this moment that I knew we were going to have a good journey.

Alas, my euphoria was temporarily suspended going through the normal security line, a massive snake line marked by 6-foot distance markers on the ground that not a single person heeded.  Indeed, the giant man-child who happened to be walking behind us was so close I could feel his breath on the back of my neck.  Luckily, the line was quick and we were off to our gate that was completely empty.  The whole airport was fairly empty which was surreal to say the least.  The gate eventually filled up, letting us know that United filled the flight almost to full capacity unfortunately.

So much for social distancing.

The airport was empty but we still used the Premier Access line!

Luckily, we flew “first class” on an Embraer 170 and were allowed to board first although everyone else boarded the plane starting from the back rows to the front rows.  Before departing, passengers were told to get snacks from the vending machines because there would be no food service on the plane.  First class passengers, however, were offered a plastic baggy filled with mini-water bottles and biscotti cookies.  Despite the semblance of a premium-cabin, I went to the restroom and was shocked to find a dirtier-than-normal lavatory, replete with food in the wash basin and pieces of toilet paper on the floor and sink.  This . . . This is the United Airlines that I know . . .

Having landed safely in Chicago, we made a bee-line for one of the few United Club Lounges open in the United States.  Thankful for the free booze and clean bathrooms, the friendly representatives also told us that we were allowed to bring in outside food given that the hot buffet was closed.  So I went to the Wolfgang Puck’s directly across from the Club and ordered Chicago-style hot dogs and an exsquisite bbq chicken pizza.  

We sat right behind the bar and enjoyed our very healthy hot dogs and pizzas in the United Club in Chiecago O’Hare International Airport

After my third gin and tonic, we were ready for the piece-de-resistance of our travel, business class on the top deck of a Lufthansa 747-8i machine.  

We very confidently presented our tickets but were told to go to customer service at the gate where they asked me for “my papers.”  Thankfully, I had them packed away separately in my book bag and was able to produce my marriage certificate and residence permit.  Only then were we allowed to board the plane. 

Finally!  The coveted staircase leading to luxury in the sky loomed large before us.  As we began our ascent into one of the best business class products in the sky, we were greeted by the friendliest flight attendants I have ever met.  They were thrilled to be back in the air as well, and told us that this was only their second flight since March 22nd.  It put a lot into perspective. 

Two things about the plane:  The plane looked full, but there was definitely some social distancing going on in our cabin.  I don’t know if people simply picked their seats this way on purpose or if the airline did it, but I know Lufthansa, to some extent, has a social distancing policy on their machines (for the time being).

What a dream - this Boeing 747-8i was truly magical!

Bae and I marveled at all of the space.  We put away our things in the plentiful storage (window seats on the top deck have extra storage) space and gleefully awaited take-off.  The flight attendant apologized profusely for not being able to offer us a hot towel or beverage service, but promptly handed us menus that held the promise of culinary perfection.

And Lufthansa did not disappoint.  We did get drinks once we reached cruising altitude, and then the food arrived.  What is different in the age of Corona is that they serve all of the courses at the same time on a single tray.  Dessert, coffee and after-dinner chocolates were served separately, of course.

Our flight attendant was very thoughtful, and always brought us extra goodies which was a treat in and of itself.  She also offered us wine from the first class cabin which was a woodsy white wine from France.  In all honesty, our preferred drink was the mango and passion fruit juice.  It was divine!

We were served champagne, juice and assorted nuts right after take-off! Eating was the only time we were allowed to take off our masks.

I had scallops and shrimp for my starter followed by the main course which was baked salmon, grilled aubergines and rice. I honestly don’t know what the other vegetable was, but it was delicious!

My husband had the duck breast as a starter followed by a beautiful filet mignonette with potatoes, medallion onions and a red wine reduction sauce.

These are, perhaps, the cutest amenity kits we have ever received. They- were filled with toothbrush, toothpaste, a mint, L’Occitane skin products, socks, ear covers for the built-in Bose headphones and an eye mask

I was thoroughly impressed by the generous entertainment selection on board.  It seemed like every movie known to man had been made available to us, including most new releases. But we opted to get some rest instead, and moved our seats into the bed position, enjoying our extra comfy comforter and pillow.

The only thing I did not like was that it was that the cabin felt a bit warm once you were in the “lie-flat” position.  And sleeping in a mask was just plain uncomfortable.  Nevertheless, we both slept like babies, and awoke to a hardy breakfast complete with beautiful breads, meats and cheeses.  

Sad that the flight had ended after only 8 hours, the captain informed the flight that we would be disembarking by row for the sake of social distancing.

However, this process was fairly quick, and we made our way to customs and border patrol who asked us for our documents.  They were very sweet, and quickly let us through the border.

Big sigh of relief.

Now, it’s been so long since we flew last, I almost forgot how damn big Frankfurt Airport is.  After schlepping across the never-ending hallway, we made our way to another business class lounge.  We weren’t going to go in (we only had 90 minutes to our next flight), but the airport was so full which is a double-edged sword to be sure.  On the one hand, it was encouraging to see businesses open and people traveling.  But coming from the states, Bae and I felt overwhelmed and sought refuge in the lounge that was thankfully located right next to our gate.

Almost there!

So . . . We board the plane but in the blink of an eye, land 45 minutes later in our second home.  Oh Berlin, how I have missed thee!

And once again, I was surprised / shocked / sad / confused by how little controls were in place at the airport.  And by little, I mean virtually none.  

Coronavirus is still out here killing folks, guys!  

We were, however, very happy to land at our beloved Tegel Airport that was originally scheduled to close earlier this year.  Our bags came out 30 minutes later, our driver met us outside the gate and we were comfortably in our downtown Airbnb by 11am . . . Just in time for cocktails.

We went to the doctor the next day, got our Corona tests and were declared corona free just a few short hours ago.

In summary, it is possible to travel and not get sick, but at great expense and with a lot of concerted effort. Nevertheless, we hope you will also venture back into the open skies and visit us on the islands!

Will you join us?  

Follow us as we continue our long journey to Cabo Verde.  But for now, we will be having as much socially distanced fun as possible here in Berlin Berlin BERLIN!

Yours always,

The Trendy One . . .